Basically, if your motorcycle won't charge or shuts off, one of the aforementioned parts has failed!A motorbike charging system component may fail in a variety of ways, all of which are very common: • The rectifier/regulator overheats and fails. The Reg/rec has a...
One of your ATV’s simplest and most complicated parts is the battery. Because of this, we must approach ATV batteries differently from regular batteries. We throw away our remote’s batteries if they run out. We deal with it far less frequently because we are used to having the engine charge the batteries in a car.
Unfortunately, we lack both of these conveniences when using an ATV. The motor is an inconsistent approach to charge and maintain the battery because of the continually varying RPMs. Batteries aren’t cheap, let’s face it. It is solely our responsibility to maintain and keep it properly charged.
The majority of people don’t deal with batteries on a daily basis, so maintaining one might be complicated. Even seasoned mechanics have been known to throw away batteries they believe to be defective. Battery maintenance doesn’t have to be as frightening if you have the correct tools and some previous knowledge. You can maximize the use of every battery you possess by arming yourself with the necessary information and making a small investment in the appropriate tools.
READ UP ON BATTERIES
You must first identify the sort of battery you are working with. The battery charging location and method will change as a result. There are two different types of ATV batteries: wet cells and absorbed glass mats (AGM). Long time have been spent using wet cell batteries. There are numerous additional names for a wet cell battery, most of which involve something wet, such as flooded battery or lead acid battery. In recent years, AGM batteries have begun to take the place of what was once the most popular battery type. The top fill caps will be your first tip-off that your battery is a wet cell.
Cleanup is necessary after a hard day of riding through muck. We frequently give the batteries a brief spray, put them on the charger, and then take them out again in the morning to give them a more thorough cleaning.
The vent tube that allows the battery to breathe will be the next indication that you have a wet cell battery. Typically, a tube extends from the battery chamber of wet cell batteries. If you find that your battery is a wet cell, you should charge it somewhere with good ventilation. The battery will heat up during charging, which will result in the production of a gas. This is typical, but you don’t want the vapors to be trapped in a tiny space because they are combustible. These batteries can be charged with any charger, however as we noted earlier, you should not quick charge them. A 5amp charge is the maximum you want to use to prevent overheating and calcification.
Typical ATV Battery
A typical ATV battery, for instance, has a 6 amp hour capacity. It would require 1.56 hours to reach 100% charge at a 5amp charge. The time passes more quickly as the amperage grows, yet the heat output increases. The battery boils as a result of the sudden increase in temperature, which also causes the acid to evaporate and induce calcification. (In addition to smelling horribly horrible.) In addition to wasting acid when a battery is charged quickly, the accumulation of calcification increases the risk of an internal short in the battery.
Use this charging calculator if you’re not sure how long to charge your battery for or at what amperage. (An amp is equal to 1000 milliamps.) Once you have determined the rate for your battery, charge it appropriately and then give it some time to rest. If the voltage still fluctuates, the battery is probably damaged. (Remember, we’re still discussing a wet cell battery at this time.) You should still have it checked at your neighborhood battery store, in my opinion.
when you do decide you need a new battery and buy a wet cell, it won’t often be filled. The battery must be charged and acid added. Ask the seller whether they will do this for you; some sellers will. Make sure not to over or underfill the battery if you must load it yourself.
Rechecking The Fluid Level
Give your wet cell battery around 10 minutes after you first fill it before rechecking the fluid level. The battery will occasionally need to be topped off because of an air pocket. You will need to charge the battery after topping it out. Again, we appreciate the amperage and charge time assistance provided by this charging calculator. There may probably still be some acid left over after you have charged and filled the batteries. We detest keeping extra chemicals on hand, but you should keep this one because the acid will evaporate if the battery gets warm. Always check the level every month and add acid as necessary.
The absorbed glass mat battery, or AGM, is the other kind of battery you might come across. These are the best kind you can purchase, in my view. They are more durable, do not spill, and vent less. They are more expensive, but there are no noxious gases, ventilation requirements, or acid refills. The labeling on this battery makes it easy to identify. Common battery warnings include “sealed do not open,” “no fill,” and “no leak.” Don’t worry if you can’t find the word “AGM” explicitly; it may also be labeled as AGM someplace on the battery.
Voltage in the Battery
AGM batteries already have a base charge and can start and run your ATV right away, but it is best to charge them to a low amp before usage to increase battery life. Depending on your charger, one of these batteries in your ATV may not want to accept a charge if it is below 4 volts. There is another approach, so don’t give up on your AGM battery so quickly. There is a way to getting these batteries to take a charge if you have charged them numerous times but the voltage still won’t rise. This tip was taught to me in a seminar on the Hawker batteries, which are the new batteries the Army is utilizing.
You will need jumper wires and a second strong battery for this to work. As though you were jump starting the vehicle, connect the dead battery to the good battery first. Take the battery charger, and then connect it to the damaged battery as well. Although these terminals are tiny and challenging to access, you can still attach them there or simply wire them to the leads of a jumper cable. Since these batteries are small, a large amp charge is neither necessary nor desirable.
Stop running your charge in this configuration after roughly 30 minutes, remove the jumper cables, and attempt charging the battery again on your own. You have no idea how many batteries I have that I’ve used to go from 1 volt to a full 12.6 volts and that other people have rejected as faulty batteries because I didn’t utilize their way.
KEEP YOUR BATTERY UP
Let’s discuss how to maintain your battery fresh and prepared for whenever you are now that you are aware of the distinctions between the various battery kinds and the best approach to charge them both.
I adore our model of battery maintainer, and I definitely recommend it. It is incredibly straightforward and plug-and-play. The majority have an ATV-attachable plug in that is solidly attached. After that, all you have to do is plug your bike in when you get home after your ride.
When you have plan to leave your ATV idle for longer than 30 days at a period, I suggest removing the battery. If at all feasible, keep it in a climate-controlled space, and be sure to give it a fast top-off charge once a month. If neither of those options is available, you ought to at the very least disconnect the ATV’s battery. By doing this, the electronics won’t drain your battery as quickly.
Remember that you must remove your wet cell batteries once every month to check the fluid levels if you have one. If the acid level is allowed to fall too low, the plates will calcify and develop a crust. The crusts will eventually come into contact with one another, leading to an internal battery short. Prices for batteries might vary depending on the type, brand, and quality of the battery itself as well as the size required by the make and model of your bike. The majority of batteries still require investment, even at discounts. Additionally, they are one of the few components that won’t get harmed when you’re riding.