One of your ATV's simplest and most complicated parts is the battery. Because of this, we must approach ATV batteries differently from regular batteries. We throw away our remote's batteries if they run out. We deal with it far less frequently because we are used to...
Basically, if your motorcycle won’t charge or shuts off, one of the aforementioned parts has failed!
A motorbike charging system component may fail in a variety of ways, all of which are very common:
• The rectifier/regulator overheats and fails. The Reg/rec has a protracted and challenging life. The entire time the motorcycle is running, the alternator is drawing current, adjusting the voltage, and converting the current to direct current (DC) so your battery can charge. How is the extra current handled? It merely converts it to heat. The reason the reg/rec has a large heatsink on it and is in airflow is because it gets hot. After a while, all of this becomes too much, and after traveling 50,000 km (or 1,000 hours of operation), it is realistic to expect them to pass away.
• Battery ages. Battery life is limited. They pass away once they age or if they are not properly cared for. Batteries today do last longer.
• Other parts can fry the battery. Your reg/rec may be overloading the motorcycle’s battery with voltage if it isn’t correctly controlling voltage. Motorcycle batteries perform best between 12 and 14.5 volts; anything higher puts them under a lot of strain. When revving hard with a fried reg/rec, you might notice voltages over 20V, which is harmful for the batteries.
• Dead stator coil. Additionally, if you have a separate alternator, it may have died or the belt may have failed.
• Unstable wiring. Many times, people are unaware that the battery terminal wires cannot simply be screwed down with a screwdriver. Utilizing a wrench, you must provide at least 5 Nm of torque (i.e. hand-tight).
What you’ll need to test the charging system on a motorcycle
You require some tools. Initially, people are frequently wary about multimeters.
A multimeter You can use any household one. But I enjoy this good quality item’s reasonable price. This instrument combines a continuity tester, a resistance meter, and a voltage meter (all things you need).
Charger for batteries Before performing the tests, you must completely charge your motorcycle. A Battery Tender can be used to maintain your battery as well as charge a motorcycle battery overnight (the 0.75A “Junior” model).
Other than that, the only tools you require are common ones, like those in your toolkit. You’ll need to unplug a few devices in order to access the battery. Simply put, you must
• To release a couple clips, use needle-nose pliers.
• Allen keys to loosen and tighten bolts and other hardware
• Optional working gloves because my hands constantly get dirty doing this things!
Use the trickle charger you purchased from Amazon or eBay before doing any testing on your motorcycle’s charging system. Keep it running all night.
Before performing any additional tests, you must charge your battery to ensure that your results are accurate.
The seat and any fairings, if any, must often be removed in order to recharge your battery. I hope this isn’t you, but sometimes you have to take the tank out.
I’m very grateful that my motorcycle has a bikini-style fairing, which allows me to access everything while still keeping me toasty.
Test 1: Battery voltage after turning on and off the motorcycle
The LED on the charger will let you know when the battery is fully charged (hopefully).
You’re now prepared to begin testing your motorcycle charging system after charging your battery! Utilize your multimeter to check the battery’s voltage.
• If your voltage is 12.4V or more, you’re in good shape.
• You need a new battery if your voltage is under 12.4V after a charge.
If your motorcycle was operating normally until you realized you needed a new battery… The question, “Why is my battery dead?” must be considered.
You might feel comfortable changing the battery if it is simply old—that is, if the battery hasn’t been changed in literally years or if it is older than five years.
However, if a subpar regulator/rectifier caused it to burn out, you’ll merely burn out a new one, wasting time and money. We’ll check the reg/rec after that.
Perform the same series of tests now but with the motorbike attached.
For a little while, unplug your multimeter (so that voltage surges won’t destroy it).
Now start the motorcycle, give it some time to warm up, and recheck the voltage at the battery.
• The voltage at idling should be between 12 and 13 volts, and shouldn’t be higher than 15V at 3,000 rpm.
Is the voltage at idle less than 12V? If so, something isn’t generating enough current. It’s possible that you have a short in the system that is consuming too much current, that your alternator or stator coil is broken, or that your regulator and regulator coil have completely failed. And If the problem is the battery you should check this method .